Crank but no start code 14

[Atomic-Ls400]

Had an issue after fuel filter and injector replacement ensured everything was hooked up correctly and it ran great after the install of the new parts, after about a 30 min warmup and cooling system burp it started running rough and then stalled and wouldnt atart back seemed to only run when cranking figured the drivers side coil went bad because when the passenger one was unplugged it wouldmt even sputter and when bice versa it would aswell as no spark from that side, replaced it and no change, got a cel for code 14 not sure where to go to from here

 

[Ian Schmidt]

Code 14 is a timing problem on bank 1. With that history I'd suspect the cam position sensor on that bank wasn't plugged in securely or was otherwise disturbed when replacing the injectors.

 

[Atomic-Ls400]

Code 14 is a timing problem on bank 1. With that history I'd suspect the cam position sensor on that bank wasn't plugged in securely or was otherwise disturbed when replacing the injectors.

Alright awesome believe it is bad when i removed it and bench tested the resistance its only 1.14 and a video i watched the guy said they should be around 2.00 ome thing i noticed its drenched oil could that have caused it to fail? Also it looks super old and is an oem part so is it possible its never been replaced amd it was just its time?

 

[Atomic-Ls400]

Code 14 is a timing problem on bank 1. With that history I'd suspect the cam position sensor on that bank wasn't plugged in securely or was otherwise disturbed when replacing the injectors.

Also should the connector to the cam sensor have any voltage for me it reads 0 when cranking and ignition on

 

[Ian Schmidt]

The oil probably doesn't help, and yeah, it's entirely possible it's time is just up.

One thing: try and get an OEM or at least made-in-Japan part if you can. For whatever reason, the cheaper Dorman and similar brand aftermarket sensors seem to be a real lottery as to if you get one that works. For Lexus the OEM parts are often made by Denso or NGK/NTK so those are solid choices. Rock Auto carries both of those brands, and sometimes you can get a deal on eBay for a real Toyota/Lexus part.

As far as voltage, probably the best way to find out what's expected is to just check the working bank's cam sensor connector. I would kind of expect either 5 or 12 volts on one of the pins, but there are sensor designs where that's not the case.

 

[Atomic-Ls400]

The oil probably doesn't help, and yeah, it's entirely possible it's time is just up.

One thing: try and get an OEM or at least made-in-Japan part if you can. For whatever reason, the cheaper Dorman and similar brand aftermarket sensors seem to be a real lottery as to if you get one that works. For Lexus the OEM parts are often made by Denso or NGK/NTK so those are solid choices. Rock Auto carries both of those brands, and sometimes you can get a deal on eBay for a real Toyota/Lexus part.

As far as voltage, probably the best way to find out what's expected is to just check the working bank's cam sensor connector. I would kind of expect either 5 or 12 volts on one of the pins, but there are sensor designs where that's not the case.

Alright ill check the other connector, if im recieving voltage on the other connector id assume it would lead me to an ignitor issue, if so could i swap the ignitors and see if i get a code 15 which would be bank 2 and if so would that be the part to replace?

 

[Ian Schmidt]

I don't think that would be the ignitors, since the cam sensors usually connect to the engine computer and the computer fires the ignitors. If there is voltage on one bank but not the other I'd check along the harness for any intermediate connectors that might have come loose, and if possible measure the voltages again right at the computer.

Of course, if there's not voltage on either bank, just go ahead and replace the sensor.

 

[Atomic-Ls400]

I don't think that would be the ignitors, since the cam sensors usually connect to the engine computer and the computer fires the ignitors. If there is voltage on one bank but not the other I'd check along the harness for any intermediate connectors that might have come loose, and if possible measure the voltages again right at the computer.

Of course, if there's not voltage on either bank, just go ahead and replace the sensor.

Ok so yeah tested the ignitors by flipping the connectors and still only get spark on bank 2 is there any diagrams available for the bank 1 ignition system? This cars harness is kind of a mess bc im pretty sure it was swapped and they just didnt do something correct harness wise because ever since i got it it has run rich sorta and just got worse

 

[Ian Schmidt]

For diagrams and service data, a lot of the pro mechanics on YouTube use Alldata (alldata.com). They have a $20 one-month access plan for DIYers, or you can try to find a used copy of the relevant Chilton's manual.

 

[Atomic-Ls400]

Alright is there anything else it could be ie the ecu someone on another forum said its possible one of the capacitors is bad should i send it out to have them replaced as a precaution?

 

[Ian Schmidt]

If one bank fires correctly it's unlikely the ECU is bad. Not impossible, but unlikely. In that position I'd replace the cam sensor on the bad bank and see what happens.

 

[Atomic-Ls400]

Alright i just really was wondering because ive seen that many times although is it possible the cam sensor is fine? It read the same resistance as th passenger one or would a sign of a cam sensor going out be it running rich on one bank till it finally goes and causes a no start

 

[Ian Schmidt]

Hmm. I don't suppose it's possible to put the other sensor on that bank and see if that one fires then? Some engines you can do that, some you can't.

Running rich on one bank can be a bad oxygen sensor or a leak in the exhaust near the sensor, among other things. It shouldn't be related to the timing.

 

[Atomic-Ls400]

I could try it yonight and let you know plugs look the same so maybe i can and see if that side gets spark and ill look into that 02 sensor

 

[Atomic-Ls400]

Alright so i swapped them no change actually mounted the new coil thinking possibly it just wasnt grounded no change, my old one was bad reading 0 ohms for resistance on either winding so with this in mind my question is what else could cause this, if theres no change that means my cam sensors are fine my coil is good and my ignitors are both good, what else could possibly cause this

 

[Ian Schmidt]

At that point it's either wiring or the ECU. If you have an ohmmeter, check for continuity from the cam sensor connector back to the ECU connector. That would determine for sure what's going on.

 

[Atomic-Ls400]

I looked and im getting voltage to the coil on the drivers side 12v when key on 8 or 9 when cranking same on the passenger one so is it possible i got a bad coil from the parts store?

 

[Atomic-Ls400]

At that point it's either wiring or the ECU. If you have an ohmmeter, check for continuity from the cam sensor connector back to the ECU connector. That would determine for sure what's going on.

Ok so i did that on the connectors that actually go to the ecu and one said 6.88 and the other 6.73 is that a sign of anything?

 

[Atomic-Ls400]

At that point it's either wiring or the ECU. If you have an ohmmeter, check for continuity from the cam sensor connector back to the ECU connector. That would determine for sure what's going on.

Ok so it started running but now its intermittent with the issue when i wiggle the connector to the drivers side coil it will run and obv have the issue randomly so clearly its something there

 

[Ian Schmidt]

That's great that you got it running! If you have some electrical cleaner (DeOxit is the most popular brand) try it on both the connector and the socket it goes into.